TERANG’s TRAVEL TALES

March 30, 2008

2008 Siem Reap

Filed under: Cambodia — Terang Benderang @ 4:10 am

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DAY 1 20/3/2008 : 12.05 Arrived in the newly open Siem Reap Int’l Airport. The WHL agent sent us a driver w/ van & drop us to the hotel,

p1.jpg check in was chaotic, the room wasn’t ready before 14.00 While waiting, my husband order espresso & cappuccino from the hotel’s bar. This two coffee is his, I’m allergic of them.

After the room is ready, I call Chea Sinak our driver & tour guide, Nak – as he address himself. I found his e–add in a website. Since then we email back & forth to fix the schedule & price. He’ll pick us up at 4.30 PM, for sunset tour.

In the mean time, we’re too exciting to have catnap, or just laying around the pool. No matter the sun around 12 – 1 PM in Siem Reap is definitely torturing, we put our head up & browse this city on foot.

Start from Prince d’Angkor at Suvitna Road – where we stay for these following 5 days. Turn left on the Highway no.6 till meet the park. Victoria & Raffless Grand at our left.

sr-10.jpg King’s Palace at our right. Walk over the bridge & come back. Witness a Khmer gentlemen watering bridge’s plant w/ bucket on a stick, first time in my life see this action. Then walk further along the river, direction south. Passed the FCC on the right. At our left was a white giant plastic naga on the river.

Our driver said, only silly foreigner will build art work like that. Well, Cambodian New Year is on the way, so silly or not, everyone has differ form how to celebrate it.

By the time we reach the second bridge, our top was soggy. But we go on. Passed Central Market on our left & stop at a fake DVD store. And continue walking to reach de La Paix, hotel & cafe.

I did my homework seriously, beside listing what to do & see in this city, I sourced all cafe & resto that serve real European food & coffee. I don’t eat nor drink them. My husband does. Since I knew his coffee at the hotel was weak & lousy, I insisted that we must stop in this cafe.

Alhamdulillah, Halleluya, Praise the Almighty, his eyes suddenly shine bright as kid’s in a toy or candy store. He found his pastries & coffee here. He took (again) 1 espresso, 1 cappuccino, plus now 3 pieces of strawberry danish, and none for me. Honestly, I don’t like those kind of European snack & drinks, why should I force myself to have them? I prefer to take some photo click around this hip hotel.

Before we ready to head back the road, I beg him to take away some more pastries, for his night snack or if he bear to wait till breakfast tomorrow. No offend, no matter our hotel has 5 stars, but by seeing their cakes in their coffee shop/bar, it won’t be the same as in here.

4.30 sharp Nak showed up in our hotel lobby. We drove to tourist office to buy 3 day tourist pass at USD 40 each, then we climb Phnom Bakheng to view the sunset.

pb-4.jpgAround 17.30, with short of breath, we arrived at the base of this temple, and voila… look up the top of Phnom Bakheng, sunset‘s worshiper are already sit everywhere, there aren’t many places left for us. But it didn‘t stop us to climb this temple to the top. W/ limited space left & foggy weather, for sure we won‘t wait till 18.30 to witness the sunset.

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So, browse around on this temple a little bit & climb down to the ground, then we left.

The sun was gorgeously golden red when we are on the south gate of Angkor Thom. Almost every temple in Cambodia was designed w/ moat around. The bridge to pass this moat has balustrade w/ two batalion of squat army statue, on the left and right side, hold a huge cobra or naga. At the top of the gate, four faces of Jayavarman VII, greeting every visitor to see his city.

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Back to Siem Reap, passing Angkor Wat’s west gate. Full round moon was posing on top of this magnificent ruin. Tomorrow, it’s your turn, mate. Tonight we’ll like to taste local Khmer delicacy. I didn’t prepare for this though, but my husband asked the hotel concierge & here we are, in Khmer Kitchen at the Central Market.

My husband order grilled fish, I took stir-fried kangkong or morning glory as it stated in the menu. My kangkong was OK. The fish took too long to wait.. and tasted awful.

Finished our night-out around 9.30 PM, back to the hotel & asked Nak to pick us up at 8.00 AM tomorrow. We tried our DVD in room’s player. It was a good copy. We watched it till the end. Beside DVD, our room TV chanel has 80 programe. That’s more than enough for our eye’s entertaintment.

2008 Angkor

Filed under: Cambodia — Terang Benderang @ 3:19 am

DAY 2 21/3/2008 : 8.00 punklicht, Nak was outsite our lobby. Alhamdulillah – Praise the Almighty, there weren’t many tourist at the ANGKOR WAT western gate. Passed the gate & walk further around 1 KM on the huge-stone-block walkway before reach the main temple. Angkor Wat is the is the biggest Hindu temple in Cambodia, comprises area of 500 acres, was built by King Suryavarman II in early 12th century dedicated to Vishnu God.

While Braman is the creator & Shiva is the destroyer, Visnu is the maintenance, the keeper, the balace. In the interior part, on the walls, full with stone carving or statue of beautiful Khmer ladies. All in gorgeous Apsara position. While on the exterior part – the guys – which are most on war or fighting position. So, it is true balance : beauty, art, peace & war at the same place ?

We finished Angkor Wat around 1 hour & my husband insisted to have a balloon ride to view this temple from above. I couldn’t say no. No matter I knew, the sky wasn’t that clear, we can’t see great scenery even from above. But, his wishes is my command. For 15 minutes in an up & down balloon, cost USD 15 each. Well, I‘ve never been in a hot air balloon, so it’s not so bad lah for first-timer.

Finished w/ ballon, we head to Angkor Thom.

ANGKOR THOM was built from 1180-1220 AD by a great Khmer King Jayavarman VII, dedicated to Buddhism. There are many temples inside Angkor Thom such as: South Gate of Angkor Thom – we’ve seen it yesterday.

BAYON, with many towers, times 4 faces of the Kings on each side. We found an artis who does his Bayon’s face rendering. And with USD 20, we took his freshly made picture home.

Passed Elephant and Leper King Terrace, and turn right. Passed Bapuon. Before reaching Phimeanakas & Preah Palilay. We stop at a stone bridge that has living trees on top. Common scenery here, tree live on top of ruins. They are all amazing.

An incredible jungle temple TA PHROM, was built in 1186 AD by great King Jayavarman VII dedicated to Buddhism.

Nak offers more temples to see. If I’m alone, I’m sure he’ll be tired drive me around view all temples & ruins in this area. But since I’m here w/ my beloved husband, too much temples to see will cause him headache. So, thanks but no thanks. Also at this mid day, we can feel the sunray pocking our skin. We‘d better go back to the city, my husband needs a coffee break.
Nak drop us in the front of fake DVD store that we found yesterday. My movie’s fans husband couldn’t resist it. After found more good copies, we walk across the traffic light to (again) de La Paix cafe. This time I was so hungry, after climb up and down many temples & ruins. A fresh lime juice & vegetarian chewy pizza fill up my stomach. Yes, the dough was chewy, not crispy as it has to, but everything are eadiable when you are hungry.

At 4.30 PM, like yesterday, sunset tour. Nak took us to the Tonle Sap Lake, the largest fresh water lake in the south east Asia. It has floating fishermen village, only occupied during dry season like now. In rainy season, all inhabitant move to the mountain to avoid all trouble.


The water way to the lake was so shallow. It’s bad for the boat. Ours stuck once in the mud’s bank, while others I saw stuck twice. Around 5.30 we reach the lake. The sun’s reflection on water was so brilliant, seems like camouflage the village behind. All daily activity can be found in this pontoon community. Supermarket, fishing collection compound, floating garden, houses, club house with pool table, churches, resto, cafe, to the crocodile & snake farm. All floating on water.

Pity in this dry season, the weather is unclear, like yesterday in Phnom Bakheng, we can’t see great sunset. But I have mixed feeling in this village. Almost every locals in this sunset viewing pontoon, ask every tourist for a dollar. Yes USD 1 !! Back home in Malaysia, USD 1 = RM 3.5. Or in my country Indonesia, USD 1 = Rp. 10.000. This one dollar attitude also common in Siem Reap. Don’t they know that not every tourist earn USD?

My mind start juggling: If I gave them, they will think „why should we work hard, just ask the tourist, they will give us money“. It absolutely will make them lazy!
And if I don’t, my angels who write down all my deed, will file bad report.

Like when we had day boat trip in Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay & Mekong River, 2003. Or in Mingun Mandalay Myanmar, 2004. Again, here in Tonle Sap Lake, we have this boat only for us. Alhamdulillah, Praise the Almighty, no matter it wasn’t quite like Onnassis, but it felt much better than.. if we should share it w/ other tourist. We‘re back to the jetty almost dark.

Nak couldn’t drive fast in this area. The local government has Korean investor to develop new marina in this lake. Plus enlarge the road to connect it to the mainland. Everything’s still going on. Trucks load w/ dirt. Dust are everywhere. Lucky, we have Nak’s car fully AC. Can’t imagine if we come here by an open tuk-tuk.

Again my mixed feeling, for this development, all locals who live along the road suffer by breathing this polution daily, 24/7, till it finished. Why don’t no one move or the government try to relocate them to other places during this stage? Many children play & laugh even in the dust. How’ll happen to their lungs & health? If here no body cares, why should I do?

Around 7 PM we reach our hotel. Tomorrow we’ll have Grand Tour. So, we‘d better rest early. But, do we have to? Sitting too long in the car & boat, make our leg itching. We need to walk. We’re in the city center. All tourist market in this area : Old Market, Central Market & newly open Night Market are only 1 or 2 block from our hotel. Also restos & pubs. Who needs to retire this soon?

We walked to the Pub Street area in Central Market. The Khmer Kitchen yesterday is also in this area. Siem Reap is a real tiny town. And w/ almost road connect to each other, it was easy to explore w/out any tour guide. This time we had diner at Le Tigre de Papier.

My husband had pepperoni pizza. I had 3 Amoks : fish, prawn & chicken w/ steam rice. Pizza was stingy of pepperoni, but my Amoks was OK. Mild but tasty. After this paper tiger resto, my husband had ice cream from opposite resto & we walked back to the hotel.

2008 Banteay Srei & Kbal Spean

Filed under: Cambodia — Terang Benderang @ 2:24 am

DAY 3 22/3/2008 : 7.30 AM we ready leave the hotel. Today is Grand Tour. We’ll drive to Banteay Srey, visit an ancient Hindu temple at the countryside, 35Km north of Siem Reap, a citadel of women. While Angkor Wat was for Visnu, Banteay Srey, was built from 968-1001 AD by great King Rajendravarman II dedicated to Siva God. Jewel indisputable of the Khmer art: entirely have been constructed by hard pink sandstone, wonderfully sculpted, perfectly preserved and restored. Not 100% true. Seeing is believing.

Around an hour we enjoyed this citadel, then drove about 50 minutes to Kbal Spean at Kulen Mountain. The road to this place is on construction. Once again, we’re lucky that Nak’s car is fully AC, so we didn’t have to breath dust & dirt from the road.

What I read about Kbal Spean was : you will see the thousand Lingas river – Grand reclining Buddha, Waterfall – and it is possible to swim and picnic. But the reality was : we had to climb up 1500 m first, on very dry season, dust were everywhere, plus some ranger swept the path ! Yes, they swept it, so make more dust than clean it ! And when we reach the top. Of course, this is dry season, there weren’t waterfall. No place to take a dip nor swimming. Forget about picnic. I didn’t see enough flat ground to sit in a group & have decent picnic. The only place you can sit & enjoy the scenery was in the gazebo, around 600 m down from the top.

The good part was, we could see all reclining Buddhas, lingas and all other relic. In rainy season, they will be submerge all in the water. Also on the way down, I felt twice. No injured, just dirt on my hands & pants.

Leave Kbal Spean back to Siem Reap, we stopped at the shooting club. One of my husband’s favorite past time : gun shooting. In KL, he is a member of a club & practice weekly. Here, he’ll try some big guns. Guns, big or small aren’t my things. This is my first time accompany him in a shooting booth. I must take video while he’s on action. My hands started trembling when he fire the AK. … …

We left this club w/ two feelings. Mine is definitely terrible. He’s great. But we’re both hungry, and lunch time means de La Paix again? No, not today. I persuade him to try FCC. Well, the building well maintained, its neighborhood is well manicured. But pardon me, old saying : don’t judge the book by its cover – works well here. The resto setting, the crowd, all staff, to the food presentation are fabulous. But the taste, quality of the food & value of money – didn’t match w/ “the cover”

On the way back to the hotel, we passed Shintamani, … … on foot. Thanks to this compact city, going everywhere are only a walking distance.

Sunset this time we’re in Pre Krup. A great ruin matched w/ Ta Som, where we see giant tree passed blocks of ruins. Every time you enter a temple, ruin or any archeological places in this area, a group of traditional musician welcome you.

Nak lock his car up & left the key inside. Lucky there’re relatives of his brought the spare key to Pre Krup, otherwise we must stay overnight here :) On the way back to the hotel, we stop in the resto BBQ Suki at the corner of the traffic light by the national museum. This place was full w/ locals, but food, taste & price are much better than in city center. For only USD 10, we had huge fish-deepfry, sumptous postion of spring rolls, beef salad, stir fry kangkong, tea & lime juice.

2008 Roulos Temples & Cultural Village

Filed under: Cambodia — Terang Benderang @ 1:26 am

Last day. 23/3/2008 after breakfast we visit Prasat Bakong, Preah Ko & missed Lo Lei. Back to Siem Reap, stop at Psar Leu – the Big Old Market, for locals.

Before stop in this market we also stop at a tiles & sanitary shop – which I though it was sort of like an”ikea”. All merchandise in this shop are imported from China. For a 1 x 2 M slab of homogeneous tile cost USD 16 – 30. Like any other shop in this area, Riel doesn’t exist. All quote in USD.

There is a Malaysian Mosque in Siem Reap. Don’t fancy it’ll look like Putra Jaya’s or Al Bukhari’s. The road to it was 2.5 m wide on dirt & dust. A city sewage system is being built along this road, make road smaller. And mosque’s surroundings are far beyond its brother in Malaysia. All dusty & poor maintain. A Malaysian Halal resto was in the corner. Also a madrasah on the back.

We finished morning excursion around 11, back to de La Paix for my husband’s coffee breaks, then we walked back to the hotel. Nak will pick us back for sunset.

4.30 PM we drove to Cambodia Cultural Village. Entry fee was USD 9 per head for foreigner. I can’t read Cambodia’s alphabet, so I don’t know how much for locals. Inside this compound was full w/ locals. It’s a theme park though, w/ some locals houses, miniature of King’s Palace, Central Market, etc.. in Phnom Penh,

Khmer who migrate to US, brought American houses & church to this Village.

Also this mosque sits peacefully here

And reclining Buddha on the other side.


and headless superman

2008 new Airport

Filed under: Cambodia — Terang Benderang @ 12:35 am

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